A long flight over and jetlag that just wants to hang on and on...... but I am now on day 4 and a rest day. Tomorrow will be a better day but another long 27klms from Viana do Castelo to Caminha.
The first few days were 32, 24 and 27klms, something I would not attempt again so early in the walk. You live and learn. The walk along the coast has spectacular scenery after the heavy morning fog disappears. The next day I changed tracks without realising and only because another walker mentioned it but both walks end the day at the same place so no big worries. I could see the sea all day so both tracks run close to each other. The days get very hot but enough shade. My tan improves each day, starts where my shorts finish and my socks start. A lovely look with sandals.
The Portugeuse people are very friendly and no chance of getting lost as they will guide you to the correct spot, even though I speak not a word of their language. They just know where you are going. Not that I lost my way!! The signage is great and regular, a bit like a yellow comfy blanket. The yellow and blue arrows run together but in opposite directions. I think the blue arrow points to Fatima.
I am a slow walker, some would say I dawdle but I have learnt to take a photo without stopping my dawdle. I also stop to visit every church or interesting building, every guard dog regardless of size, every alley cat and field creature big or small gets a photo. I have noticed that a lot of walkers are heads down so do not stop to visit these places or say hullo to the animals, perhaps this is why I see them seated drinking coffee in the cafes when I wander into town. You must take the time to smell the roses, Santiago will always be there.
A rest day today so acted the tourist and rested the body, feet and knee from a tumble yesterday. I now know what gravel rash feels like but next time I will be more careful of the uneven footpaths and roads. My next section is 5 days walking and the days distance will range from 14 to 27klms and will cross the border into Spain.
See everyone on the other side of the border and hoping for warm, fine days to accompany me.
Tuesday, 2 October 2018
Friday, 28 September 2018
It has begun and the nerves are running amok
A long flight via Singapore and Munich and my body cannot decide if it is day or night. The nerves are running amok but this is the way I react to a new country and I do not speak the language. I have a fear of getting lost so my way to sort this is to get up early and walk when there is no one around. Not that I was not awake very, very early as my body time clock thinks I should be up - it is still dark. Some elderly men also wandered the streets in the early hours playing their tin whistles, not sure why or how many bars had been visited along the way. The hotel nightwatchman nods and smiles as I head out, I know what he must be thinking. The streets are still dark but plenty of light to show my way and many young revellers making their way home, it is 5am.
Head up towards the majestic stone Cathedral sitting quietly on the rocky hill looking down towards the river. This is where I need to go. The first camino shell and yellow arrow, comforting. I wander down the pebbled pathway past the tourist office and down the steep, stone narrow steps still following the yellow signs. I am starting to feel a little less panicked. The morning sun is starting to rise and the city comes to life. I am now sure of my walk directions for tomorrow, everything will be OK for the 30klm walk. The remainder of the day will be spent as a tourist.
The first day is always the hardest.
Head up towards the majestic stone Cathedral sitting quietly on the rocky hill looking down towards the river. This is where I need to go. The first camino shell and yellow arrow, comforting. I wander down the pebbled pathway past the tourist office and down the steep, stone narrow steps still following the yellow signs. I am starting to feel a little less panicked. The morning sun is starting to rise and the city comes to life. I am now sure of my walk directions for tomorrow, everything will be OK for the 30klm walk. The remainder of the day will be spent as a tourist.
The first day is always the hardest.
Saturday, 15 September 2018
A quiet weekend and a glass of red .......
Only 10 days to go and I am starting to think " hell I am actually walking again". I must be out of my mind as it gets no easier as I get a year older each walk.
A few months ago this walk was decided over a quiet weekend and a glass of red wine or two. I was not planning on a long walk this year but my circumstances changed and I became a FIFO grandmother flitting between Cairns and Brisbane.
I knew I would not have the time to organise this walk like I have done with the others. I had shoulder surgery early in the year and now problems had risen again so was not sure about carrying a backpack. This is where painkillers appear each morning. I did not want to carry a backpack like I carried for 8 weeks through France and England and back then my pack was light, only 2 sets of clothes - it was so nice to arrive home to a new clean set after the Via Francigena walk.
I googled and to my surprise the Portuguese Coastal Camino appeared and I decided then and there that was where I would walk.
A few differences this time. The company I chose to organise the walk for me also offered a carry service and I thought "what the heck, I am not carrying a full pack this time. I will walk as a pilgrim but I will cheat a little". It is a short walk and I want to enjoy it, I want to go away with a clear head and it will remain this way until I return. Problems remain at home. I have raised the promised amount for Cancer Queensland.
I have everything sort of packed at home as I am currently in the north and not due to arrive home until the day before I fly. What I forget I will go without, I will survive.Walking can be an addiction, but at least it's a healthy one. I may have retired but my dreams have not.
Sunday, 9 September 2018
Back again - do I never learn
In 2017 I decided to walk over 1000klms across England and France nearly to the Switzerland border. You ask why? Am I so crazy to walk this distance solo and in a country where I did not speak the French language. Well I did walk 1050klms in 8 weeks and came out the other end a little frazzled but a lot wiser. I never walked the complete Via Francigena to Rome but will continue this walk across Switzerland and into Italy in August/September 2019. Not alone but with my sister for company, we walked through Ireland together in 2016 for Cancer Queensland and this was where the bug hit me. Why not keep walking while I have the energy and before age has decided that we call it a day, before I feel it is time to put the feet up, take it easy and start to knit. This is definitely not going to happen yet and definitely not this year.
After I returned from this long walk I wrote up my walk diary and a few weeks ago it was published on Amazon as an e-book or a paper copy. If you are interested in this read please have a look - "In the Footsteps of Pilgrims Past".
In just over 2 weeks I will be walking again but this walk will be a "short " walk, about 270klms. I will start in Porto and this stunning walk will meander through the seaside towns and villages of Northern Portugal and the beautiful countryside of Spain finishing at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Again I will walk solo and for Cancer Queensland. I promised to raise $1000 for the cause and last week I managed to fulfil this promise and a little bit more.
https://give.everydayhero.com/au/walking-the-portuguese-coastal-camino
My training this time has been in short spurts but I feel over the years I have completed my serious training so did not need to push myself to the extremes as I have done before. Well, this is what I have told myself but guess only time will tell. I have trained on the Brisbane Valley Rail Trail (BVRT) and also the Atherton Rail Trail and other short walks on the Tablelands, made full use of steps instead of lifts and escalators and walked to the shops where possible. Watched my diet and generally looked after myself. What more can one do?
I hope to post an entry each day but this will depend on WIFI access and energy after a days walk. I will continue to post on my Facebook page so there will be entries on a few places.
Come walk with me and keep me company.
The before photo ……..
After I returned from this long walk I wrote up my walk diary and a few weeks ago it was published on Amazon as an e-book or a paper copy. If you are interested in this read please have a look - "In the Footsteps of Pilgrims Past".
In just over 2 weeks I will be walking again but this walk will be a "short " walk, about 270klms. I will start in Porto and this stunning walk will meander through the seaside towns and villages of Northern Portugal and the beautiful countryside of Spain finishing at the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Again I will walk solo and for Cancer Queensland. I promised to raise $1000 for the cause and last week I managed to fulfil this promise and a little bit more.
https://give.everydayhero.com/au/walking-the-portuguese-coastal-camino
I hope to post an entry each day but this will depend on WIFI access and energy after a days walk. I will continue to post on my Facebook page so there will be entries on a few places.
Come walk with me and keep me company.
The before photo ……..
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